BMW M3

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1995 BMW M3

1995 BMW M3 questions and answers

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Q: I have a 1995 BMW M3 that is having passenger window problems.?
Ok, so the window was working then the pressurized system that seals the window stopped working one day. After that the window itself stopped working. On another day the window started working after the window depressurized. Again, now the window has stopped coinciding with the window not depressurizing when the door is opened. I need any help as to how to fix this. Either there is a way, or I have to replace the motor itself. when I press the button you can hear a clicking from the door. not necessarily a turning though. it engages but doesn't go down.

A: You may have a bad switch, or it may be a bad motor unit. Get a Bentley manual to work on solving the problem, or follow my links. switch repair: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/power_windows.html motor repair: http://logun.org/e36coupewindow.htm http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=190119

Q: I have a 1995 BMW 318i convertible. Will a 1995 E36 M3 Coupe door work as a replacement?


A: They take different fenders, I don't know about doors

Q: differences between bmw m3 and 328i and 328ic?
actually I want to buy a bmw 1995 and I want to know the differences and tell me about maintances of those kind of cars, how much expensive they would be... and more details that can help me please

A: Yeah, Dom...right. For the 95 E36: M3 is a 3.0L I6 S50b30 with 240hp. It's a sports coupe in every way. Nice tight suspension that is almost track worthy from the dealer. Very strong engine for the period as well. The 328i/c were actually not offered in the US 95, only in Europe. They started US production in 96 and the introduction of the M52 block and OBDII. The 96-99 E36 328i was either a coupe or sedan. (I don't believe they adopted the ci for coupe on the E36). The 328ic is a coupe convertible. The convertible will be significantly heavier(150-200lbs) than the coupe. The 328 engine was a 2.8L I6 M52b28 190hp. Great car. A little less sporty than the M3 but has all the same creature comforts. The suspension is a little softer, a bit less power, overall the same great car. The choice is yours. Do you want the sportier ride and extra power of the M? The 95 M will run you between $8500-13000 depending on records, maintenance, condition and mileage. (I got mine for 9400 in march w/93000mi) The 96-99 M3 will be around $9000-17000 depending again on year, records, maintenance, mileage and condition. 17k may seem extreme for a 99M3 but you find a cherry one and you will know why! :) The 328 will probably be between $6000-12000 depending on year(96-99), mileage records, condition and maintenance. Also, on a down note, be sure to put a $1000 or so away for post-purchase repairs. If the cooling system hasn't been overhauled that'll be $300 in parts and 3-4 hours labor. Bushings on a 100k mile car are generally not to far from failure as well.

Q: BMW M3 1/4 Mile Time?
I have a 1995 M3 that is modded with a Turner Motorsport Chip, Autothority Exhaust, and K&N Cold Air intake. The car is 255HP stock and I am estimating about 290 HP to the flywheel now. What do you think this car would run the 1/4 mile in. I'm guessing in the 14 second neighborhood. What do y'all think?

A: Most of the same models on youtube finished at 14.6 seconds.

Q: How much HP do the m3 and 3 series BMW's have? between 1995 and 2001 models..?


A: I assume you are talking about the E36 Models 1990 to 1999 or the pre-facelift E46 Models 1998 to 2001 First the E36' M3 Evo 321 BHP @7400 RPM M3 286 BHP @ 7000 RPM 328i 193 BHP @5300 RPM 325i 192 BHP @5900 RPM 323i 170 BHP @3950 RPM 320i 150 BHP @5900 RPM 318IS 140BHP @6000 RPM 318i 113BHP @5500RPM 316i 100BHP @ 5500 RPM 325Tds 143 BHP @ 4800 RPM 325Td 115 BHP @ 4800 RPM 318Tds 90 BHP @ 4400 RPM THE E46 M3 Cabrio 343 BHP @ 7900 RPM M3 Csl 360 BHP@ 7900 RPM M3 Cs 343BHP @ 7900 RPM M3 343 BHP @ 7900RPM 330i 231BHP@ 3500 RPM 330d 184 BHP@4000RPM 328i 193 BHP @ 5500RPM 323i 170BHP@5500 RPM 320d 136BHP@4000RPM 320i 150BHP@5900RPM 318i 118 BHP @5500 RPM 316i 105 BHP @5300RPM Hope ive helped if you have any more questions about bmw's just ask they are my speciality Thanks Dave

Q: how much is my car worth i have a 1995 bmw 318i?
it has many extras like cat 1 alarm 17" alloys m3 spoiler clear lenses it has only done 96000 miles and i have no idea how much it is worth!

A: Try www.whatcar.com

Q: Car overheats to red zone then drops back to operating temperature and continues this cycle?
I recently had the thermostat and radiator replaced on my car, it ran fine for about 800 miles, and is now overheating again, however it will heat up relatively slowly, stays in the red zone for a minute or two, then drops back to operating temp as quick as can be. The faster the engine is revving, the faster this cycle goes. What could be the problem? The car is a 1995 bmw m3 by the way.

A: You may have obtained a defective thermostat. Try another. Too, if you are running AC, this places a tremendous strain on the cooling system, especially at high speeds. You may want to have a qualified professional look the vehicle over to determine if there is something else wrong.

Q: 1995 M3 S50 engine main bearing torque spec?
Bought the Bently manual and there is NO bottom end data at all! What a rip off. Anyone know the correct torque for main bearing caps and rod bearing caps?? I have gotten a load of junk at Bimmerforum- so beware I actually have built many engines. Just never a BMW before.

A: this is straight from bmw. Tightening specifications for main bearing: 1. Tighten all screws on main bearing cover with jointing torque. 20 nm 2. Unfasten screws on main bearing cover 6. 3. Strike back and front of crankshaft with plastic hammer to centre thrust bearing (do not damage crankshaft). 4. Tighten screws of main bearing cover 6 with jointing torque. 5. Tighten all screws of main bearing cover with special tool 11 2 110 or special tool 00 9 120 with torsion angle. 50 degrees the special tool is a angle gauge. after jointing torque. then turn all screws 50 degrees. Tightening torque, S50 US M10 Replace, wash and oil screws Jointing torque 20 Nm torque angle 50 degrees

Q: My car is totaled, what would be the value.?
I have a 1995 BMW M3 with 33,300 miles, extremely hard to find. They want to give me $8,000 for it when I payed $18,000. What the hell should I do?

A: They give you about what dealer trade is. Just because you paid too much doesn't mean they must.

Q: Funds Plan for BMW engine swap?
I'm 17 years old and I have a 1995 BMW 318ti. I would like to swap in an M3 engine into it to make it much faster than it is now. This costs about $3, 000 dollars when include the purchase of a wrecked BMW M3 that I'll buy, towing services for it etc. Right now I only have $250 so this won't happen anytime soon. First, I have to buy the car I drive now from my parents for 3k (what they bought it for). Then, I will get the other crashed car and swap them. I am getting a job right before summer. I need a plan for how to get there, because I WILL GET THIS DONE. I really want to. I dont want to hear the "this isnt practical" crap, because i post on 318ti.org and many of them have done this. I just need the funds, so how long will it take and how can I make additional money other than my job I'll get? Thanks! Me and my dad are doing the labor. He has done a lot of work on cars including an engine swap in a Nissan that he has.

A: foir a 17 yr old, in this bad economy, if you do not already have a job, then it will take 3-4 YEARS to save that much money. it all depends on how much money you will make at your summer joba nd how much your parents make you pay for gas and insurance on the car you already have - you won;t be able to spend any money on ANYTHING else and it still might take years to save up all you will need - who is going to take the engine out of both cars and install the good one in the other car? - that's a major operation and auto repair labor for BMW's will run you at least $60-80 an hour

Q: my car hasnt been started/moved in a year what should be done before i can drive it?
i recently changed the battery, but im thinking oil and such needs to be checked/changed? any and all ideas as to what i should do before i take it out on the road? its a 1995 bmw m3 if that matters

A: Change the oil and drive it if everything was fine before it shouldnt have to many problems now you might have a break squeek from rust buildup on rotors but itll go away.

Q: BMW M3 or Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo?
Assuming both are 1995 and have the same mileage which would you rather have? Which do you think performs better?

A: nissan is smaller inside but is cooler than the bmw but if you looking to show off with a beast of a machine go for the bmw

Q: Why is the Euro spec version of the 95 BMW M3 seriously more powerful than the US version?
In addition, how on earth can a Naturally aspirated 3.0L, 6 cylinder engine from back in 1995 put down 317 hp? World renowned 6 cylinder engines such as Nissan's 3.5L VQ only put down 280...and that was in 2003, almost 8 years later. I'm guessing that BMW is cheating here....it's not really engine technology that's making the HP but something to do with increasing exhaust flow -- which means it can't meet emissions standards in the US. Or wasting a lot of fuel. Or Something!!

A: The European S50B30 3 litre motor was rated at 286hp. It was replaced with the S50B32 3.2 litre motor from '96 on, rated at 321hp. There was no "cheating" here. The German's have to be very honest because their government organisations, such as TUV, test this data independently. A combination of advanced technology and high revs result in the engines exceeding 100hp/litre. That's exclusive, but not unprecedented performance for a normally aspirated (non-turbo or super charged) engine, shared with Ferrari and only a few others. Both engines featured special optimised cylinder heads (using a lot of the technology derived from BMW's McLaren F1 motor), individual throttle butterflies for each cylinder, double VANOS adjustable camshaft timing, true header-type exhaust manifolds, solid valve lifters and a bunch of other things that made them expensive and powerful, as well as rev limits over 7,500RPMs'. It's the difference between mass production (like the Nissan VQ), and hand-built low volume. The US versions of the M3 used the 3 liter S50B30US and 3.2 litre S52B32US, both rated at 240hp. Unlike the European version of the motor, these reduced costs by using basically the same cylinder head, single throttle body, hydraulic lifters, intake manifold as the 325i and 328i (M50 and M52 motors, respectively), but with more aggressive camshafts in addition to the larger displacement. For the E46 M3, the US engine, is the same S54B32 motor as used in the rest of the world, rated at 333hp (SAE).

Q: I hit a pothole and ruined my radiator, had it fixed, and now there are many more problems, what should I do?
I have a 1995 BMW M3, I took a road trip to Florida, but along the way, hit a big pothole, and the car started overheating. Luckily I was near BMW of Macon, GA, so I took it to them to have it fixed. I paid a $98 diagnostic fee, along with another $1000+ for a new radiator, at which point they told me the thermostat was stuck closed and would need to be fixed. After I shelled out all this money, I drove it back, problem free, to southwest michigan. After a few short trips around town, it began overheating again. I took it to the local bmw dealer and they said it was overheating again due to a leaking head gasket and possibly a cracked head, estimated cost to fix is $2200-$5800. Should BMW of Macon be responsible for this, as they didn't tell me anything about this, they told me it was fixed and safe to drive? What should I do?

A: I back up nj973man's response. Ancillary or consequential damage and *very* likely occurred at the first over-heating. I think it unlikely that BMW Macon has any liability in this. Even if they had performed a leak down test (and, who knows, they may have) they probably would not or could not have detected the problem. As you yourself have noted, the damage to the cylinder head wasn't noticeable until several heating and cooling cycles had passed and the damage had progressed.